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There’s a huge range of aftermarket accessories for 4WDs and utes that provide more performance, better protection and increased convenience. But all 4×4 vehicles also need a decent set of lights, especially when hitting the bush. There’s no street lighting to help put, and far too many dangerous obstacles and surprises. To safely negotiate dirt trails and technical terrain, deal with dust storms and haze, and find your way in pitch darkness, fit your rig with the right 4WD lighting.
Types of 4WD Lights
Safety and visibility in typical off-roading conditions are the main reasons to consider reliable 4WD lights. And here there’s a lot to choose from.
Light Bars
Light bars pack a lot of brightness in small, compact designs meant to be fitted along grilles, bull bars or roof racks. The slim rectangular profiles, heavy-duty build and the choice of flood or spot beams add visibility to the sides of the vehicle, while also illuminating the road in the distance. Almost all feature LED tech for lasting performance, heat sinks to deal with heat when on for hours, and metal housings paired with IP67 ratings to last in heavy downpours and scuffles with the many obstacles you’ll encounter.
Driving Lights
These come in two basic flavours – spot and flood lights. Spotlights are housed in circular globes and robust metal housings and are usually installed on or near bull bars. They supplement the brightness from the car’s headlights, but the higher output with high effective lumens ratings means drivers will have no trouble seeing 1000 metres or more into the distance. Light is focused and spread at narrow to medium angles (roughly 30 to 60 degrees from the source). Besides LEDs, these 4×4 lights can also be fitted with halogens or Xenon bulbs. All though are made tough, like light bars have appropriate IP ratings for harsh conditions, and are often sold as pairs for more even light spread.
Floodlights tend to be smaller but still pack a punch. They have narrower beams (<30 degrees) and project more light to the sides and in a higher vertical plane than other stock and aftermarket lighting. This makes them more effective at spotting obstacles or wildlife that other lights miss. Like spotlights, they too have varying light tech, with LEDs featuring in newer versions. Shapes and housings differ between square-ish and circular and the smaller footprint means they can fit just about anywhere on the vehicle. The good news is that they also double as camping or work lights, benefitting from low-power draw despite their high brightness.
Hunting and Infrared Lights
This a completely different breed of 4WD lights, allowing nighttime visibility with all factory or aftermarket lights off. They’re used alongside night vision goggles, in cases where you want to see but not be seen. Use them when hunting, for security purposes, and surveillance on large acreage and business premises. They also outshine other lights in very bad weather, including dust storms, haze, overcast night skies, or heavy downpours. Like other newer lighting gear, they use LEDs as the source and come equipped with different beam patterns.
LEDs vs Halogens vs HIDs
Halogens are an older bulb design that produces light by heating a tungsten filament inside a glass casing. An inert gas, usually argon or nitrogen, reduces wear from heat and ensures they last longer. They’re the cheapest to produce, easiest to find, and simple to replace. Downsides include the short lifespan, light that errs on orange and yellowish tints (causing fatigue on longer drives), generally lower brightness and very high power consumption.
High-intensity discharge (HID) lights are a considerable improvement and work similarly, by passing an electric current through a xenon gas inside a glass bulb. They’re recognisable by the bluish tint, very high brightness and decent power usage. They’ll also last longer, due to lower wear and generated heat. What makes buyers think twice is the very high price, especially when HIDs have been largely replaced by more efficient and low-cost LEDs.
The appeal of LEDs is that they’re not bulbs as such, but diodes through which current is passed, emitting photons, or basically, light. That they’re not encased in glass bulbs means designs of varying shapes, sizes and configurations are possible, and something that can be seen on headlights in newer cars. LEDs consume much less power (roughly 70 per cent) than halogens with the same brightness levels, dissipate heat through heat sinks and are more reliable. They’re less susceptible to vibrations or impact, can be calibrated for different colour temperatures and are more forgiving on the eyes on longer journeys. The tech has been widely accepted, and prices have decreased considerably, meaning more durable, longer-lasting lights that provide unmatched visibility in all driving conditions.
Other Considerations
Once you’ve decided on the lighting tech and the type of off-roading lights that meet your needs, time to also consider minor but significant details. Not all lights are equal, and the materials used in their construction, specifically the LED chips and the outer housings and lens determine how long they last and whether they measure up to quoted IP ratings. Off-roading is harsh on any vehicle, and the lights get battered. Durable designs and high workmanship mean lights should perform even in high outside temperatures, hail or rain, and impact from branches, rocks or animals.
Another thing of note is brightness. Manufacturers stated this in different ways, but look for effective lumens, or the amount of light spread over a defined distance for 30 minutes after they’ve been on. This takes into account heat, moisture and other factors (like lens designs) that eat into efficiency and something disregarded with the raw lumens ratings lower-end brands use.
Lastly, consider wiring and installation. Mounting hardware should be of the same tough materials as the housings and provide decent adjustability for correct positioning. Sealed, plug-and-play connections ensure lights get the power they need, and no dust or moisture ruins your trip by causing short circuits or blown bulbs.
